How a lifelong obsession with snow leopards led me to northern India

Tsewang Norboo at work scanning for snow leopards and different wildlife within the Ulley Valley, Ladakh, India. Photograph for The Washington Submit by Dina Mishev

In November, the panorama within the northern Indian territory of Ladakh is barren. Prickly sea buckthorn bushes and red-limbed willows are among the many few species that may survive within the area’s chilly desert local weather and excessive altitudes. The mouth of the Ulley Valley in central Ladakh is about 12,000 toes above sea stage. The village of Ulley, the final within the valley and the top of the scrawny, pitted street that’s the space’s solely connection to the remainder of India and the skin world, is about 14,300 toes in elevation.

Standing on a small outcrop and scanning the snow-dusted ridgelines, I am unable to see any indicators of life. Neither can I think about something in a position to dwell in such an inhospitable setting.

Besides I do know snow leopards are right here.

I do know this, and sufficient different snow leopard trivia, to current a brand new truth a day for 100 days – the species’ common gestational interval, by the way in which – as a result of, after I was too younger to know this wasn’t attainable, I needed to develop as much as be one.

Snow leopards soar 50 toes in a single pounce, have massively bushy tails and purr however do not roar. Additionally, they’re so robust they dwell the place few different animals can – within the excessive altitudes of Nepal, Bhutan, Pakistan, Tajikistan, western China, Afghanistan and northern India, the place Ladakh is.

What 4-year-old would not wish to be a snow leopard?

Though discovered throughout a reasonably huge swath of Central Asia, snow leopards are among the many most troublesome wildlife to see within the wild. Estimates of their worldwide inhabitants range enormously, however the highest is barely about 7,500. They’re additionally solitary, camouflaged and never significantly giant: often lower than two toes tall and, not together with these fabulous tails, , between three and 5 toes lengthy.

Amongst wildlife watchers, snow leopards are known as “ghost cats,” “mountain ghosts” and “ghosts of the mountains.”

Due to a number of residents who’re grasp wildlife trackers, the Ulley Valley is among the many most dependable locations on the earth to see a snow leopard within the wild.

After all my grow-up-to-be-a-snow-leopard dream did not make it by kindergarten. When it died, I pivoted shortly: I might develop as much as be a veterinarian who labored with snow leopards. This lasted till I used to be 15 and a volunteer at a wildlife sanctuary the place the most important animals have been blue herons. It took quarter-hour to find they terrified me. By the top of my first day, I spotted just about each different animal on the sanctuary terrified me, too.

So I amended my snow leopard dream one closing time: I might see one within the wild.

Twenty-nine years later I guide a spot on a snow leopard safari. I discover a journey organized by andBeyond, a journey firm that makes a speciality of wildlife-focused journeys around the globe. Beginning and ending in Delhi, it’s 11 days and consists of six nights on the Snow Leopard Lodge within the Ulley Valley and in addition the eagle eyes of wildlife spotters Tsewang Norboo and Tsetan Namgail.

I decide this journey as a result of since “andBeyond” began working it in 2017, in keeping with its journey planners, between 80% and 90% of teams have seen a snow leopard.

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Stanzin Namgyal, the supervisor of the Snow Leopard Lodge, pouring a beverage Ladakh, India. Photograph for The Washington Submit by Dina Mishev

As many info about snow leopards as I can spout, I understand in a short time after arriving in Ladakh that I do know little about their panorama. For starters, it is not tremendous snowy right here. Within the shadow of the Himalayas, the area will get solely about 4 inches of precipitation yearly. More difficult for snow leopard recognizing is the panorama’s scale and complexity.

Earlier than the beginning of the “andBeyond” journey, I organized for what I imagined was a private ghost cat monitoring mission: Myself and a trekking information would spend per week mountain climbing within the Rumbak and Markha valleys.

In Hemis Excessive Altitude Nationwide Park, on the other facet of the Indus River from Ulley, these valleys are house to snow leopards and modest homestays the place bogs are holes within the floor and there is little English and no working water however all the time loads of sizzling tea, smiles and momos (native dumplings).

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The concept I will spot a snow leopard by myself is crushed my first day within the Markha Valley, a 40-mile-long finger of flatness sandwiched between the Zanskar and Ladakh mountain ranges. Shortly after the grime street disintegrates to the purpose that it is sooner and extra comfy to stroll than bump alongside within the employed automobile, a toothy ridgeline above catches my consideration. It seems prefer it affords nice views, and in addition to be an achievable scramble.

Regardless that my physique has not but tailored to the 11,000-foot elevation, I head for it, leaving my information watching me from beneath. I begin slowly. In a short time I get even slower. Wrinkles, undulations, outcrops, boulders and caves unseen from the underside reveal themselves with each step. Respiratory is the simple half.

I do not make it up greater than 200 toes, which is not excessive sufficient for the information, who waits patiently for me beneath, to vanish from view. He is the one type of life I can see, although.

OK, the snow leopards should wait till subsequent week. As an alternative, I go to the Tacha Monastery, which is perched 300 toes up a sliver of rock above a bend within the Markha River and has a commanding view of the valley. I additionally watch the opposite wildlife – bharal, also referred to as Himalayan blue sheep though they’re in the identical subfamily as goats; choughs, a high-flying relative of crows and ravens; flitty white-winged redstarts; and pink fox, with their very own bushy tails.

I additionally see two totally different units of snow leopard tracks, simply distinguished from these of Himalayan wolves, the one different giant animal within the space, by their rounded-but-asymmetric (versus oval) form and lack of nail impressions. They’re smack in the midst of the trail. I stroll, actually and with a pounding coronary heart, in a snow leopard’s steps.

By the point I return from Hemis and meet the “andBeyond” group in Leh, Ladakh’s most populous (about 50,000 folks) metropolis, I am principally used to the altitude. Contemporary off the aircraft from Delhi, none of the remainder of the group is, although.

Shortness of breath is not the one fear at excessive altitude, the place the variety of oxygen molecules you get per breath is about half of what you get at sea stage. Altitude illness, brought on by going too excessive too quick, may cause complications, nausea and dizziness and, at its excessive finish, excessive altitude pulmonary edema, a doubtlessly deadly buildup of fluid within the lungs.

Spending two or three nights in Leh, which is 11,500 toes in elevation, lessens the probability of getting altitude illness after we transfer as much as the Snow Leopard Lodge, which is at 14,300 toes.

Leh has Buddhist temples and Ladakhi historic websites together with Leh Palace, house of the Ladakhi royal household from the early 1600s till the mid 1800s. Regardless that we’re simply killing time ready for our our bodies to provide extra pink blood cells to hold oxygen, the times cross shortly. Nonetheless I depend the hours till our departure for the Snow Leopard Lodge and the skilled snow leopard spotters.

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Kiang, also referred to as wild Tibetan asses are the most important wild asses on the earth. Photograph for The Washington Submit by Dina Mishev

Once we pull into the lodge’s grime parking zone after a four-hour drive, Namgail, Norboo and his household, a lot of the workers, and a handful of curious villagers greet us. Yaks and cows, typically too large to be prey for snow leopards or wolves, roam free round us; donkeys, goats and sheep are stored in leopard-proof mesh-topped pens.

We’re whisked into lunch, which begins with a bowl of mushroom soup seasoned with ginger. The primary course is fried rice with greens and soy dumplings. Whereas it is a dish I had at a number of homestays in Hemis, the extent of facilities and repair on the lodge are markedly increased. Most lodge rooms have personal loos, and all of its loos have working water and Western-style bogs. Each night, workers members tuck bladders of sizzling water between company’ sheets. Each morning, a sizzling beverage of your alternative is delivered to your room.

The primary recognizing session begins after lunch. Namgail, Norboo and Stanzin, Norboo’s center son and the supervisor of the Snow Leopard Lodge, every stand at a Zeiss recognizing scope. Two different scopes are open for the six company to scan on their very own. There are additionally a number of pairs of binoculars. We’re instructed to deal with ridgelines, the place motion and silhouettes are most simply seen.

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Virtually instantly Norboo finds a gaggle of male Asiatic ibex on a hillside on the other facet of the valley. They’re utterly invisible to my bare eye. With Stanzin’s assist I discover them by a scope. Their chins are wispy with beards and their heads topped with lengthy horns that curve sharply again.

The presence of ibex, a species of mountain goat, bodes effectively for a snow leopard sighting. Together with blue sheep, they’re among the many cats’ favourite prey.

However there are not any snow leopards that afternoon. We see a few golden eagles, a Himalayan snowcock and one other group of ibex.

The following morning after breakfast, I start washing my face in a bucket of sizzling water delivered to my rest room simply as somebody runs by the lodge: “Wolves! Fast!”

The pair of wolves is much more troublesome for me to see than the ibex, though they’re half the gap away. Lastly I discover them – two shaggy kinds saunter throughout the hillside instantly reverse the lodge. When it is my activate a scope, I can see the lolling tongue of the entrance wolf.

As a result of I am nonetheless forward of everybody else in acclimatization, I accompany Norboo on a monitoring expedition to a low cross on the east facet of the valley. This cross is a recognized snow leopard crossing.

It’s a 1,000-foot trailless clamber up steep, free terrain to the cross. With trekking poles it is laborious strolling for me. Norboo walks simply, even with a tripod and recognizing scope slung over a shoulder. He stops to set this up and scan for wildlife simply typically and simply lengthy sufficient for me to catch up. He additionally stops to level out indicators of snow leopards.

At an overhanging school-bus-sized boulder, Norboo finds tracks within the grime. I acknowledge the form indicative of a snow leopard; Norboo sees a mother and two cubs. “About two days in the past,” he says.

Subsequent is a rubbing rock. The proof? A number of strands of snow leopard fur cling to it.

Norboo lifts up the carcass of a younger ibex by certainly one of its legs, that are the one elements that have not been picked utterly clear. A snow leopard kill. Taking a number of steps to the left, he stops and research the bottom: “That is the place they ate it. A mother and cubs once more, about two weeks in the past.”

He affords me the carcass, and, though dealing with useless wildlife is about as interesting to me as hanging out with herons, I take it and look intently on the bones for impressions of snow leopard enamel, which I don’t discover. Nonetheless, holding the leftovers of a snow leopard meal is the one coolest factor concerning the journey thus far.

It’s a day towards the top of our keep on the lodge that Namgail spots snow leopards: a mother and two cubs, possibly even those of which Norboo and I noticed the tracks .

We spent days driving up and down the valley looking for totally different vantage factors – and Namgail finds the household whereas scanning from a flat spot a two-minute stroll from the lodge’s entrance entrance.

The snow leopards are, by far, probably the most troublesome animals of your complete journey for me to make out. Stanzin calls me to a scope he positioned so the household is in the midst of its subject of view. He tells me that the mom is mendacity on the highest of a rock on the ridgeline and the cubs working and leaping beneath her.

Via the scope I scan the seen part of ridgeline, however see no snow leopards. The remainder of the group has discovered the cats, however minutes cross and I nonetheless see solely the identical empty, hostile panorama I’ve seen the final two weeks.

After which one thing flies off one of many ridge’s serrations. A second one thing follows. The cubs have leapt off the highest of a 25-foot-tall rock.

Now that I’ve acquired them, I can observe them. They scamper, wrestle, take breaks to lick their paws and climb a rock again to the highest of the ridge the place, because of a head flip and flick of her tail – which is each bit as magnificent as snow leopard tails look in images and documentaries – mother lastly turns into seen. We watch the cats till it will get too darkish to see them anymore, about an hour. That evening childhood desires fill my sleep.

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1. The place to remain

Grand Dragon Ladakh

Ladakh Previous Highway,Leh


Every of the 76 rooms on the Grand Dragon Ladakh has a tv, WiFi, heating and air-con and a Western-style rest room. Rooms, together with breakfast, from about $118 per individual.

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Palzom Homestay

Most important Tukcha Highway, Leh


Get a real native expertise with Tsering Palzom in her conventional three-room house a brief stroll from the Leh Market and Previous Leh. Rooms are comfy and the shared rest room, which has a squat bathroom however no sizzling water, is in a separate constructing. From about $12 per individual per evening, together with meals. Reserve room by e-mail.

2. The place to eat


Fort Highway, Leh


The menu right here consists of Israeli, Thai and Italian meals – all of that are good, however do not miss the Indian and Ladakhi dishes, particularly the aloo parathas out there at breakfast. Open every day 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Entrees from $4.

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Thatbsang Cafe

Gotal home Stalam Kharyok, Leh


A colourful, cozy rooftop cafe in a 300-year-old restored stone house in Leh’s Previous City; the menu consists of an in depth tea choice and conventional Ladakhi dishes. Open every day 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Meals from $2.

3. What to do



This journey clothes shop affords 12-day, small-group journeys to Ladakh that embody two nights acclimatizing in Leh earlier than driving to the distant Ulley Valley to spend eight days in search of snow leopards with native spotters. Downtime might embody visiting close by Buddhist monasteries and seeing wildlife akin to ibex, Tibetan blue sheep, picas and Tibetan wolves. Eleven nights of lodging, flights to and from Delhi to Leh, transportation in Ladakh, an Indian information, spotters within the Ulley Valley, and all meals $6,891 per individual.

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Leh Palace

Namgyal Hill, Leh, Jammu and Kashmir


Restoration work by the Archaeological Survey of India is ongoing at this nine-story former royal residence on a hillside above Previous Leh. Modeled after the Potala in Lhasa, Tibet, this palace was constructed within the early 1600s; the royal household of Ladakh lived in it till the mid-Nineteenth century. Open every day 8 a.m. to five p.m.; Indian residents about $2; non-Indians about $3.

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Alchi Choskhor



This sacred Buddhist temple advanced on the banks of the Indus River is exclusive for its artwork, which incorporates frescos, wooden carvings and a 17-foot-high painted statue of a four-armed Bodhisattva Maitreya. Each inch of inside partitions of the totally different temples are lined with frescos of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, patrons of royal lineage, wildlife, temples and actions like searching. These are among the many best-preserved Buddhist artwork from the interval round 1000 A.D., when the advanced was constructed. Open every day 10 a.m. to five p.m. Indian residents about $2; non-Indians about $3.

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Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa Highway, Leh, Jammu and Kashmir


Take a look at your acclimatization, get panoramic views of the Indus Valley and Zanskar and Ladakh mountain ranges, and see brightly painted reliefs of Buddhas by climbing the 500ish steps to the Shanti Stupa, which was inaugurated in 1991 by the Dalai Lama, who has a summer season house exterior of Leh. Open every day 5 a.m. to 9 p.m.

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Jama Masjid

Most important Bazaar Highway, Leh

The biggest mosque in Ladakh is within the middle of outdated Leh. It was initially inbuilt 1666-67 and rebuilt in 2017 with an intricately carved wooden facade and two domes. Inside is a memorial devoted to Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, a Muslim scholar and saint who based Ladakh’s first mosque (within the fifteenth century in close by Shey). Open every day from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m. Solely males could enter. Free.

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Day hike within the Rumbak Valley with Stanzin Norboo

Meets you at your resort/homestay


Prolong your time in Ladakh to trek within the Rumbak Valley, which is a part of Hemis Nationwide Park, house to snow leopards and shut sufficient to Leh you are able to do a day hike right here to the 15,400-foot-tall Stok Cross. Advance reservations required. About $100 per individual and $75 per individual for six or extra folks, together with personal transportation to and out of your resort in Leh.

4. Data: